
Preconceived ideas of China were losing altitude as the plane dipped into PEK airport.
My first introduction to the complexities of cultural difference was with the girl in the seat next to me. She'd noticed I was watching a movie that was not in English (nor was it in Chinese), she asked if I could understand it, and I pointed to the subtitles and said "kind of".
She lived (judging by her map pointing) around Qinhuangdao, and was attending University of Victoria for Science. She acknowledged her struggle with English, but was still fairly persistent in communication -I was a little embarrassed about the pathetic extent of my Mandarin. The most spoken language in the world and I was limited to a few key sentences -this sort of thing was reoccurring all over the field school.
She asked me a number of questions regarding Canadian social culture (but never really referring to it as such). She wanted to know about things like crying in public and whether Canadian boys would want to date her. Her shyness could not contain her enthusiasm for answers, a push and pull I saw with many of the Chinese students I met during my short time.
A flurry of movement through security and arrivals -I pitied the securities guard who had to pat down my sweaty back.
Finally, Stanley emerged in his element as a Mandarin speaker guiding confused Canadians to a ramen noodle spot. Since Stanley and I had already learned from the Guatemala field school, splitting a bill is where friendships break. But here, we paid individually for our meals and drinks before they even came to the table. Gradually over the field school I would grow to size up a restaurant and try and decipher how payment would be divided.
As our group wandered over to the gate our fascination sparked with little things such as squat toilets and water bottle fill stations. I was familiar with squat toilets from my adventures in Ghana, but those
toilets didn't really have any flushing capacity, where as these were just as modern as what I now understand is a Western toilet. I sort of found out that a lot of people simply prefer this kind, it's not lack of innovation or capital, it's just the style.
Arriving at the gate we heard a noise that would become so familiar, the hoarking sound of thick snotty spit. Stanley sort of sighed that that was one thing he didn't missed about China, I figured it was an isolated incident -how wrong I was.
Our three hour flight to CAN airport included breakfast. This was the first flight where I knew there was no expectation that passengers would speak English. Should there be? It's a domestic connection. The breakfast itself became quite symbolic to me, I've flown across Canada and never had a single in-flight meal since the layovers were so perfectly spaced out. In China I can't think of a single flight where a meal wasn't served, even on what that was only an hour and a half. This emphasis on food was something I really appreciate about China, eating is something that does connect us all and using meal times a space for relationship building on validates the importance of both people and food -what's not to love!
Then we were in Guangzhou, in a cloud of smoke, surrounded by people, cars, and rain. This was the waiting for the taxi game. This was the first taste of what Chinese architects, government, city planners, and more go through to control crowds. With such a large population the snaking pathways and inconvenient escalator placement actually makes sense. It's not so much about the time it takes but about the quality of the outcome. It wasn't efficient to get from the plane to the hotel, but it actually did a good job of breaking up groups of people (saving them from getting pushed around too much).
The Poly Hotel was an oasis in a sea of exhausting travel. My first impressions were masked in an undying excitement to sleep. Sleep at 2:38am in room 203 with my new buddy Sally.